Rwanda is remembered for its appalling 1994 genocide, but Tobias Hewitt’s penitential journey to the shrine of Our Lady of Kibeho reflects the sense of hope felt by many pilgrims

“Suffering is good,” says the pastor, as the group assembled for the 75-mile pilgrimage to the Rwandan town of Kibeho stoically listens on. I am beginning to have serious doubts about my ability to finish this act of religious devotion that nearly 100,000 Rwandans complete every year. It is in Kibeho that people find hope, solace and reflection, touching not only on their faith but on the very spirit of their country.

The town of Kibeho is intertwined with the tragic history of Rwanda: more than 35 years ago, in 1981, three young students were blessed by a Marian apparition foretelling the horrors of the genocide to come. In November of that year, the Virgin Mary appeared to Alphonsine Mumureke with a clarity described as if “she were talking on the phone”. Anathalie Mukamazimpaka and Marie Claire Mukangango, fellow students, soon after experienced similar visions. In hours of conversation, the Virgin referred to herself in Kinyarwanda – the native language – as Nyina wa Jambo, “Mother of the Word”.

Despite the sanctity and joy such a holy moment would entail, these encounters would eventually touch on a much darker message: during a visitation on 15 August 1982, the Virgin Mary asked everyone to pray in order to prevent a terrible war that was to come, with accompanying visions of death, dismemberment and destruction.