According to the philosopher Alasdair MacIntyre, “Facts, like telescopes and wigs for gentlemen, were a seventeenth-century invention.” Few uncontested “facts” were in evidence during the debate over whether to leave or remain in the EU, although before the vote the UK’s wine trade body was in no doubt. The Wine & Spirit Trade Association was almost unanimous in its support for remaining, with only 2 per cent in favour of leaving.

Contested facts are also bewilderingly common in the debate about whether or not wine is good for your health. The Chief Medical Officer’s January report overturned the widely held view that, drunk in moderation, red wine can cut the risk of both cancer and heart disease. The negative impact of even one glass a day, the report maintained, outweighs any benefit, most of which can be gained in other, less unsafe ways.

Doubtless, with time, the pendulum will swing back. But what cannot be denied is that some wines or, at least, some aspects of wine, are more and less “healthy” than others. The most obvious negative factor is alcoholic strength. Higher levels are becoming more common.