All Europe understands the connection between spring lamb, renewal and the Easter feast, but this recipe includes another ingredient not always associated with the season: salted anchovies. In southern Europe, Italy in particular, anchovies were an important food during Lent and on fasting days when Catholics were forbidden to eat meat.The European anchovy has on it only a tiny amount of oily flesh, yet travels with its fellows in such large numbers that they have always been relatively easy to catch using fine-filament nets. So easy to harvest, in fact, that over centuries their population has been shrinking and observant Catholics had to find a source of salt fish elsewhere – from the south-western point of England, for instance.British television audiences are currently agog over