Reviewed by Jane O’GradyGRANTA, 301pp, £14.99)Tablet bookshop price £13.50Tel 01420 592974 Drinking with Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre, their fellow philosopher Raymond Aron pointed to his glass and said, “If you were a phenomenologist, my dear fellow, you could talk about this cocktail and make a philosophy out of it.” According to de Beauvoir, Sartre “turned pale with emotion”. He might well have paled at The Virtues of the Table, for, though he went on to philosophise about sex, Sartre was too puritanical to philosophise about eating; yet food oozes with philosophical succulence. Julian Baggini is the best sort of popular philosopher. The most trivial or outlandish topic becomes fruitfully philosophical in his hands. Food becomes a r