04 September 2014, The Tablet

Lunch on the hoof

Shuffling into a railway arch by one of London’s busiest road intersections is a queue of hungry people. But this is no Vauxhall soup kitchen. Instead the crowd is an eclectic mix. There is a barrister, loudly discussing his latest case, a few people in bike gear, a group who have just emerged from the Tea House Theatre and a young man – my son in fact – who is on a quest to find the best burger in town.The joint is Dirty Burger, London’s hippest new outlet and one among dozens of new “gourmet” burger chains. Burgers are the new risotto, someone quipped. Interesting thought, given the acceptance that the fast-food-guzzling social slice is supposed to be low-income and poorly educated – and destined for obesity and our hospitals’ cardio-vascu
Get Instant Access

Continue Reading

Register for free to read this article in full

Subscribe for unlimited access

From just £30 quarterly

  Complete access to all Tablet website content including all premium content.
  The full weekly edition in print and digital including our 179 years archive.
  PDF version to view on iPad, iPhone or computer.

Already a subscriber? Login