17 February 2022, The Tablet

Unhappy hour


From the vineyard

Unhappy hour


 

THE HARD times that lie ahead are the unavoidable consequence, we are told by our rulers, of global inflationary factors beyond government control. Along with gas and electricity, wine prices, too, are set to inflate due to rising costs, from the price of glass, labels and even capsules, through to transport and supply charges, not to mention post-Brexit bureaucracy.

One year from now, however, a quite separate tranche of price hikes that have nothing to do with inflation, energy costs or supply problems will hit hard-pressed wine drinkers; and these will most definitely be the result of government decisions. Amid complaints by keen Brexiteers that not enough is being made of post-Brexit freedoms, one such freedom was seized on in last October’s budget: an overhaul of alcohol duty. Wine, despite having taken over from beer as the country’s favourite tipple, and even though tax on wine has risen twice as fast as on beer over the last 10 years, will be the chief casualty, with 47p or more to be added to the price of a bottle of red wine. Fortified wine will rise by even more, with £1.09 to be added to a bottle of port.

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