I HAVE been spending some very happy hours reading Terence: The Man Who Invented Design, Stephen Bayley and Roger Mavity’s book about the great Habitat creator and restaurateur Sir Terence Conran, who died in 2020. It is a must-read for anyone who tentatively bought their first duvet in the 1970s – or chicken brick. The latter is a device that cooks of a certain age understand to exemplify a moment when the simplicity of French provincial cooking came into our kitchens. The “brick” was not so much two clay slabs as a sort of ovenproof terracotta bivalve, designed to enclose a whole chicken so it could roast in its own juices, helped along by herbs, a lemon and olive oil. It unfailingly resulted in the juiciest, best roast fowl.