THE OWNER of our local farm shop is almost apologetic. He is not the only one. The butcher, the baker and the greengrocer in our local town are the same. Ask any of them how business has been since March, and the answer is always: “I hate to say this but …” Then they admit, “In spite of everything, it’s not been too bad.”

The agility of small independent retailers, most already operating with a skeleton staff, and well practised in adapting to changing circumstances, has given them the advantage. They were already competing with online retailers, not only providing home delivery but offering face-to-face customer service and, the vital ingredient, access to food that no online retailer can match for quality and a guarantee of local sourcing.