WHEN STEVE McCarthy retired, he and his wife Carol decided to start a “little camino project”. They opened Emmaüs, a modest centre d’acceuil at Arthez-de-Béarn on the Via Podiensis, one of the four main pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostela through France – and probably the one with the best scenery.

Here pilgrims can, for a while, lay down their burdens – either physical or spiritual. “What is really striking is how grateful people are for the very little we offer,” Steve told us.

“Perhaps it’s because we never ask for money. Or maybe our little wooden shelter is one of those places where the boundary between heaven and earth has become thin.”