Claret is in crisis. Last year’s harvest in Bordeaux was down by 39 per cent, due to frost and hailstones, and Chinese sales have slumped since President Xi’s anti-corruption drives. But perhaps most ominously, home sales, which account for half of Bordeaux’s entire production, have dropped by nine per cent. Interestingly, a sharp decline in top-end sales has been registered since the yellow vest protests, with more expensive clarets losing ground to cheaper labels.

But across the Channel, Britain’s love affair with claret is, this side of Brexit, at least, undimmed. Indeed, Bordeaux’s red wines could be said to owe their prestige to events dating from the twelfth century that were the reverse of Brexit.