Sainsbury's seems to have finally caught up with some of the other supermarkets in its discovery of Italian white wines, and on the shelves are a nice pecorino and a fiano, the former just under £7, the latter just over £5. Both are very tasty and fresh, as they should be, the pecorino quite floral, and the fiano claiming to have flavours of toasted hazelnuts. The power of suggestion can be quite strong. Sainsbury’s also does a solid white, Costières de Nîmes, for a very reasonable £6. This is full and fruity, quite abundant and long, a hefty 14 per cent, but soft and dry – very good value and quite distinctive.There are a few interesting Italian reds, too. I have mentioned the smooth marzemino before – again good value at around £5 &
06 February 2014, The Tablet
Shelf indulgence
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