12 October 2017, The Tablet

Ill-starred by Michelin

The Ethical Kitchen


The question of whether the greatest chefs pursue awards or are the prey of the Michelin Guide in their own right is always contentious. Awards can make a chef but can also break him – as they have done with Sébastien Bras, holder of three coveted “stars” for his restaurant Le Suquet in southern France. Bras has handed his honours back, no longer wishing to work under such pressure.

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