Thirkleby prisoner of war camp still stands on its hill. The camp’s tall water tower rises above the regimented group of low, brick-built huts as it has for nearly 80 years. The view from these huts, where Italian and German U-boat men were once held, is also largely unchanged – a stately line of willows gracing the meanders of the little river that flows through the fields. Going down to the willows, I sat on the riverbank.