In Santiago de Compostela last week I was baffled by a life-size coloured statue on an altarpiece. It was of a man in a crimson eighteenth-century waistcoat and breeches, a powdered wig on his head, in one hand a sort of virge and on the other a bird.

This was in the Romanesque church of Santa Maria Salome (the only one in Spain), which in the Baroque era was done up nicely with gilt barley-sugar columns. Mozart is not venerated ecclesiastically, so who, I wondered, could this saint be?

A cartouche on the wall nearby was put there by Sebastián Malvar, Archbishop of Santiago 1784-95. (A formidable character, he had, as a missionary in South America, taken on both the Viceroy of the River Plate and the messianic Tupac Amaru II.) It kindly offered an indulgence of 80 days for a Pater and an Ave before this image of the glorious martyr St Julian.