ON WEDNESDAY this week, I woke up in Bruges. My hotel room faced on to one of the city’s central squares, but when my alarm clock went off at 8 a.m. I was puzzled. Outside my window, all was quiet. I could hear birds singing, and the occasional bus. What had happened, I wondered, to rush hour? If this had been central London, or central Paris, or central Rome, the noise outside my window at 8 o’clock would be deafening. What I’d be hearing in any of these cities – what I do hear, since I’m lucky enough to often spend time in them – would be traffic. And more specifically, cars. Horns blaring; sirens screeching; engines racing; police whistles blowing.
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