09 June 2016, The Tablet

Summer rosé compared


In two weeks’ time, the Great British Public will have made up its mind about continuing or ending membership of the European Union. Many wine enthusiasts are predicting that a Brexit vote would mean new trade tariffs, which could send the price of European wine rocketing.

This depressing prospect seems hardly to have figured in the interminable public debate. Is it too unseemly a consideration for more puritanical pundits? Or have we forgotten the gastronomic revolution that came with membership of Europe and joining the world’s largest wine market?

This time last year, this column reported rosé’s remarkable rise in popularity. One year on it is still the fastest growing wine category in Europe and beyond, even though the EU has wisely banned the rosé designation from being applied to “blush” wines, that is, wines produced by blending red and white. The more traditional, skin-contact method still dominates in Provence, the world epicentre of rosé production.

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