The zenith of a food producer’s success is a name, a tag that will be recognised all over the world. Parma is synonymous with ham; Chablis with white wine; Melton Mowbray, pork pies; Roquefort, blue cheese; Puy, lentils; Bresse, chickens – to name but a few, and thanks to EU-backed certification, the people who make these foods or drinks are now well established.

 Controlled designation of origin is a guarantee of excellence for the consumer, and the appellation system has created wealth in the food industry, especially in Europe where so many wines, cheeses and other specialities are famed.

But the British are catching up with products such as Newmarket sausages, Stornoway black pudding, Gloucester Old Spot pork, Single Gloucester cheese or Cornish clotted cream, some of which have achieved protected status.