When food manufacturers make a pledge to reduce the saturated fat in the food they produce – think chocolates, doughnuts and pies – it ought to be news that we welcome. But the devil, as always, is in the detail. Saturated fats come in many guises, not all of them unhealthy. For example, butter is a saturated fat, but nutritionists are now revising their opinions. Last week, a leading cardiologist, Aseem Malhotra, claimed that dairy products and natural fats could actually protect the heart and that (if so) butter should replace spreads and margarine in manufactured foods.It is all very confusing for those who wish to watch their saturated fat consumption. At present, the general consensus, which may change given the new claims made for butter, is that over-consumption of satu