The Vatican has opened its railway station for tourists to take the train to the Pope’s summer residence and gardens at Castel Gandolfo. It’s the best opportunity yet for a glimpse of the way past popes lived – amid formal beauty but in great loneliness On a hill above the lakeside town of Castel Gandolfo, about 15 miles from Rome, a wooden crucifix overlooks the vineyard that produces wine for the Vatican sacristy. The hill tumbles down, through shaded olive groves and alfalfa fields grazed by the Holy See’s cows and donkeys, on towards the Mediterranean.This view, from the papal summer residence, has been enjoyed by popes since the seventeenth century – until, that is, Pope Francis. His decision not to move to the cool of the countryside during the summer