Rose is one of the great revivals of recent times and supermarket shelves are once again heaving, as summer finally arrives with pink wine from across the world. Personally, my heart used to sink when I heard “A glass of rosé?” The very words summoned up memories of that marketing miracle of the 1970s, Mateus Rosé. An attractive, neatly rotund bottle of inoffensively sweet but vapid Portuguese vinho verde – “green”, “young” wine – it was, apparently, Saddam Hussein’s favourite wine.The runaway success of Mateus Rosé (invariably served to unwitting guests by Manuel in Fawlty Towers) was the brainchild of one man, Fernando van Zeller Guedes, a marketing genius whose company still exists. It was one of the first succe