The other day, I saw an interesting new beer in my local pub and bought a pint. It was extremely expensive, and I wondered why, until I noticed that the label on the tap described it as a “craft” ale.“Craft” beers are all the rage, despite some uncertainty about what the expression means. The term comes from the US, where the Brewers Association has defined a “craft brewer” as one that is “small”, “independent” and “traditional”. Small doesn’t mean small in our terms: American craft brewers are allowed to produce up to six million barrels a year. Nor do they have to be entirely independent or entirely traditional; unusual ingredients are common.In contrast, we have no definition at all. Here, “craft”