12 June 2014, The Tablet

Summer lights

by N. O’Phile

 
I suppose that rosé can be a refreshing drink for the summer, but I tend to see it as neither one thing or the other; there are light reds (Beaujolais, Bardolino) that you can drink chilled, or why not just go for a tasty white? However, in the interests of balance, and in case you are looking for a decent rosé, I thought that I had better try at least one. And where better to look than Greece? There might be a long answer to that question, but I reasoned that if Waitrose was selling a rosé from Greece, then it should be worth trying. The label is Phaedra and the grape is the local xynomavro. The result is a very pleasant and easy-drinking rosé wine; it has sufficient fruit, but without being as bright and “jammy” as some rosé wines are. And
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