I should feel elated, having had the great privilege of attending the Mass Pope Francis celebrated in Amman on Saturday. What I feel instead is a kind of heaviness, something of the weight I imagine the Pope to have felt on his three-day pilgrimage to the Holy Land. This weight must be heavier still than that which his predecessors bore on similar visits to the Middle East. Difficult as things were in 1964, when Pope Paul VI was welcomed to Jordan by the late King Hussein, who could have thought how much worse things would become in the years that followed? The region has endured wars, deaths and horrific injuries, new divisions within nations and among peoples, and staggering numbers of refugees. Hearing the stories of those who have had to leave their homes in next-door Syria, and the a