When were you last offered a glass of sherry before dinner? Forty years ago, you would have been offered little else. Sherry, served exclusively as a minuscule aperitif, is still associated in the minds of many with the fusty, staid surroundings of the Senior Combination Room or the genteel drawing rooms of elderly relatives.

But a new generation of millennials is enthusiastically taking to this fortified treasure of Spain’s deep south, not only as a pre-prandial but as the perfect pairing with food.