The year 2013 was when the carnivore came under the microscope. For once, the question was not the morals of eating meat at all, but which meat, and how? This debate exploded in January, when Ireland’s food-standards agency found significant traces of horse meat in beef products for sale in British supermarkets. Never mind the obvious and disgraceful fraud, the outcry was mainly squeamish. Had the burgers and pies in question been “contaminated” with pork, consumer disgust would have been directed at the swindle. Instead, the horror was all about the species. We British don’t eat horse. We’d rather eat a chicken that spent six miserable weeks in a broiler house than a horse bred for galloping about the countryside until the day it was deemed unwanted –