The commercialisation of Christmas releases antibodies in my spending habits. I have so far bought just two presents. I have, however, ordered our goose for Christmas Day, because it comes from a small farm nearby and there is limited supply.

I drive past the field and salute the flock as they move in starling-like formations, foraging. I am glad our goose, whichever one it is, is enjoying a decent life before the inevitable. The goose farmer’s life is not easy.