Today’s Kiev offers some of the most striking clashes of the sacred and the secular that you can find anywhere in Europe. Last week, I watched a group of nine Orthodox pilgrims, all women, walking slowly and in single file towards the entrance to one of Ukraine’s most revered holy places – the Monastery of the Caves. That in itself would not have drawn attention. But they were processing along the white line in the middle of a four-lane road, with the traffic slowing respectfully, or so it seemed, to give them space. They reached the portal of the great monastery unscathed.