Having cautioned in the past against the proliferation of rows of pinot grigio on the supermarket shelves, I now find that I have to change my tune slightly. Only slightly, because much of the pinot grigio is still mediocre and worse, but there seems to have been a recent expansion to so-called pinot grigios, most of them from the New World. I have mentioned before now the New Zealand “The Ned” wines, including a wonderful pinot grigio (Majestic and Waitrose) . There are three that you can find in Marks & Spencer, ranging from just under £7 to £10 (although there may be special discounts being given nearer Christmas; they weren’t there when I bought).The £7 is from Hungary and is bright, lively, with lots of fruit (limes, tangerines, melons) and rep