Christmas is the time of year when you want to break a stout stick over the head of the first person who says that the whole thing is over-commercialised. Or at least I do. It is not only that it is a cliché, but, like every reader of The Tablet, I have already worked out ways of finding space in the Yuletide froth. It is a technique, like stopping a saucepan of milk from boiling over.I have just read through 1,000 newspaper articles about Christmas published in the past week alone. They discuss the same thing that we mean by Christmas. But they see it through a distorting mirror. Take this question in the Sunday People directed to the chef Tom Kerridge: “What’s your food guilty pleasure at Christmas?” The poor man answered: “After a walk on the beach in a b