BEYOND THE harbour wall, the sea roared like a bull seal. Riding into the gale, a boat slowly took shape. The lobster men were coming back without a haul – you can’t bring in lobsters with such high winds. Once the vessel had reached the harbour, three figures appeared on deck. Dressed in yellow sou’westers, they were heaving up crates from the hold. Even moored up, the sea tossed their boat as though it were nothing more than a gondola. A small motor launch was already on its way to meet them. It drew alongside. One by one the crew handed down the crates to the figure in the launch. The fishermen might not have caught the lucrative lobster but they were landing plenty of crabs. Beyond the harbour, the grey rocks of Lindisfarne rose to the towering turret of the castle.