ONE OF the pleasures of living in a reasonably affluent area is that as you walk the streets at dusk, you can peer into well-lit basement kitchens. Look at those appliances! Those worktops! The tiling! What are they eating? This guilty pleasure has now been extended to the nation in The Kitchen (BBC2, 7 October), a three-part exercise in televisual gawping. I’m not sure I’d want a fly on my kitchen wall, real or metaphorical, but in this series eight households have kindly offered to give their mealtime interactions a peak-time audience. Fly-on-the-wall documentaries are one of the things we do best in this country. The film-makers, helped by lightweight and unobtrusive equipment, know all about gathering and shaping material. And we, the people, understand our role too: to sh